New Holy Decree just dropped
I think it boils down to being a dilettante at best - e.g. wearing one in the wrong context - or - simulacra e.g. wearing a fake one with fashion details that wouldn't be useful in the original intended context.
I wear my Perfecto style jacket because it's designed to keep me comfortable and safe while riding my motorcycle. The little coin pocket for my keys and quarters for meters. The slash chest pocket for sunglasses. The ball and chain zips make it easy to get into with gloves on. Epaulets for holding a bag across your body securely, or a place to shove gloves. The belt is necessary because you don't want the jacket to ride up your torso if you go down and have to slide. It's leather because it's abrasion resistant, etc.
They are - in there original and unadulterated form - safety equipment. That's why for them to be passable day to day, they need to be toned down - a lot.
Military inspired - and even work wear - fall into the same tropes. Welding jackets tried to be fashionable for a hot second, but everyone realized it was just idiotic and try hard.
Personally I think if you ride a motorcycle, know why your jacket is designed that way, you're probably good to go. If you don't know where the clutch is, then probably hold off Chuck.
I remember when I was a teenager and wore my older brother's tattered Ramones shirt. The punks at school asked, "Name your favorite Ramones song - and don't say Blitzkrieg Bop."
2 days later on TRR: https://www.therealreal.com/products/men/clothing/outerwear/lanvin-calfskin-moto-jacket-gucay
These only really work in David Lynch creations...James Hurley, Donna Hayward (basically every teen in the town of Twin Peaks), Sailor Ripley, etc.
big fan of the coolness water metaphor. may we stay hydrated.
i also want to note the styling and grooming failures in the first collage. double riders belong with unwashed hair and chipped nails. whenever i see dan levy sport a pair of spotless tortoiseshell frames with rick owens.......... i cry. would love to hear your thoughts on how the recent uptick of vintage pieces contrast with the painfully manicured standards of the 2010s and beyond.
100% agree with this and even the nuances you captured. Like the same vibe of Target and UO creating band Tees captures it so well hahah
I love the decrees and the willingness to issue them, even when they might alienate some people. I was with you on this one--too much going on, too much hardware, too aggressive, too much carbon emitted to make--until about five years ago. Hedi Slimane, Caroline de Maigret, and Kate Moss look amazing in their perfectos, IMO.
i've wanted one of these jackets since I was a little punk teen and finally bought myself one a couple months ago... it's one of my favorite garments i've ever purchased so I'm gonna have to respectfully disagree on this one!! go off though!!!
my first leather jacket (many a moon ago but I will not out myself as to how f-ing old I am) was an honest to god cop jacket without the double flap clap trap or epaulets. I did have small grommets for pinning your badge without compromising the leather integrity. It smelled like cloves bc I went to hardcore shows, shaved the side of my head and could be seen smoking cloves in the alley between bands.
I also had my grandfathers 70s Serpico leather jammer that I only confidently pulled off in the mid-90s.
And full disclosure I’ve had a vintage Hermes joint in my sights a time or two.
Looking forward to BBSP leather round up.
Biker jacket: retired. Oversized aviator jacket as seen in late-season Sopranos, Michael Imperioli Central Jersey shore: back in rotation
It's like buying lotto tickets. There's an incredibly small chance that it will work out but the reward is so enticing that people keep on trying.
Very conflicted about this post--on one hand I celebrate the message as an anti-epaulets absolutist, but a double rider also protected my elbows and torso from significant scrapeage when I ate shit riding a scooter a few years ago
.000001% of the population is about 7800 people. So you're saying I have a chance?
Love y'all for this. Not Ryan Tedder in the collage! As my friend's music industry father once decreed, apropos of nothing save maybe his own midlife crisis, "son, don't buy the leather jacket."
It’s nice to have your opinions validated first thing in the morning 😁
I wish I could find the tweet now (it was prolly from Die Workwear), but it was basically noting that the double rider over bland-but-very-slightly-nodding-to-fashion business casual is the go-to uniform for C-Suite white women in tech