I’ve been thinking a lot about that tweet you referenced in your recent send, in which someone said they work out not for vanity or even health, but to avoid getting lost in a world of signs.
It feels resonant with, I don’t know what to call it, a large-scale internet fatigue? Which, I think, while long simmering, has really come to an overflowing boil over the past year.
People everywhere are tired of almost exclusively inhabiting worlds of signs and symbols. We’re yearning for embodied truths.
Perhaps the same currents have pushed our collective clothing fetishes from on-the-cloth to in-the-cloth quality.
On the flip side, raw denim people have always been “in-the-cloth” appreciators, yet their little subculture was famously online.
Clearly in-the-cloth appreciation doesn’t preclude the social dimension of enjoying clothes
This was a beautiful exploration of an object’s “thingness” — have you ever read Richard Powers’ Echomaker? Has a lot of great stuff about the world of signs: “there’s nothing in this world that giving meaning makes it more” — “louder the ring, less the thing”
Playground too! Feels like it, along with The Maniac and Same Bed Different Dreams, should be required reading as we tap our way toward the technohellscape we seem determined to create. Plus the bit about the “impossibility of having made it over the finish line together” hits on so many different levels!
This is a great. Thanks for writing about this. When I opened Fancy Groceries a few years ago, I thought to myself man I don't want to just have another store full of plastic, so our whole vibe for the last 3 years has been about what's in the cloth. I only curate plastic free clothes made from natural materials. It's not easy to do, but it's worth it.
If anyone in spy nation has a large-scale strip mining operation you should really check one out! They let you see not just what's *on* the earth, but what's *in* the earth too!
I would counter that 'in the cloth' has been a popular idea for almost all of fashion's history- for a small subset of designers and consumers who could afford such inherent quality. The designers you listed certainly fall into that.
What I'm more intrigued by is the opportunity for 'in the cloth' to actually become accessible to a broader swathe. The Digital Product Passport emanating from the EU is top of mind for every fast fashion brand on the planet. The heart of that regulation is essentially centered around 'in the cloth'. We see massive brands driving deeper investment into regenerative wool and cotton production in order to keep pace with impact goals and reporting. We could certainly argue that any mass production erodes a certain je nais se quois one would find in a coat woven from a small flock of sheep on the neighboring hillside. Still, can better material choices actually reign triumphant at scale? There are some interesting examples of this from Sally Fox's early work with Levis and Lands End.
There's so much in the thread. I love using selvedge edged linen on all of the tea towels in my shop because it cuts my labor in half - only two edges to cut and sew. The edge has character and the drape is so much better. Faster looms and sewing machines like the serger replaced decorative and utilitarian seam finishing - my favorite part of vintage clothing is the finished inside without the ugly zig zag of threads. Viva la finished edge! Viva la French seam!
immediately thought of online ceramics new line of clothes clothes and then you referenced the graphic tees, i think they are getting it too, there's a limit to these things...less of a limit, more of a balance? the pants look nice!
Intriguing! And I get it - especially when you see the substandard version of everything as prices go up, and quality goes down. But this verges a little bit into Stars-On-Thars territory (Sneetches, check it out). The impossibility of buying a coat made of grass, or flying to Paris for the ultra cool pants… well. That’s kind of for the Star Bellied Sneetches, if you know what I mean.
had to google a synopsis - not a seuss i've ever read, but i'm curious to do so - if I follow your point, i think it's what i'm alluding to with the thing at the end about intricate cloth becoming its own kind of sign & fetish....
when i think about this topic generally I often consider the parallels with organic farming, which in the U.S. exists broadly / effectively as a luxury category, because that is where the market wants it, whereas in countries with a healthier regulatory apparatus (among other protections) you find higher quality food at greater scale and lower cost
Yes Re: fetish. But your point is a great one. We create the demand by altering our buying habits. But the profit motive of an industry is a very big ship to turn, as you know. Right now, the “top of the line” ($$) women’s wool overcoat at J. Crew does not have a lining. It’s basically crap. Will we reach a point when no one remembers that coats should have a lining by the time that ship has turned?
Spyplane, check the Burton mine 77 merino kit with the alligator camo Engineered Knit. These are 100% merino wool and are woolmark certified manufactured in Japan.
I’ve worn religiously since they’ve arrived in the frozen tundra that is nyc the last few weeks.
With regard to thingness, materiality and care, I'd love to shout out my dear friend Elaine Goddard's new line of women's wetsuits, Basalt, made in Japan from sustainable limestone rubber and designed with a curved front zip, and panelling mapped for women's bodies. I've been watching her work for years on creating a design that improves her own surfing experience and welcomes more women into the water. They just launched in January and it's a really special project to keep your eye on.
I’ve been thinking a lot about that tweet you referenced in your recent send, in which someone said they work out not for vanity or even health, but to avoid getting lost in a world of signs.
It feels resonant with, I don’t know what to call it, a large-scale internet fatigue? Which, I think, while long simmering, has really come to an overflowing boil over the past year.
People everywhere are tired of almost exclusively inhabiting worlds of signs and symbols. We’re yearning for embodied truths.
Perhaps the same currents have pushed our collective clothing fetishes from on-the-cloth to in-the-cloth quality.
On the flip side, raw denim people have always been “in-the-cloth” appreciators, yet their little subculture was famously online.
Clearly in-the-cloth appreciation doesn’t preclude the social dimension of enjoying clothes
yes 100%, this essay sprang directly from that "world of signs" / "world of things in themselves" dichotomy in last week's plane
you could argue that, in a way, in our current "in the cloth" era we are all selvedge denim appreciators now :)
This was a beautiful exploration of an object’s “thingness” — have you ever read Richard Powers’ Echomaker? Has a lot of great stuff about the world of signs: “there’s nothing in this world that giving meaning makes it more” — “louder the ring, less the thing”
have only read Overstory, thanks Geoff
Overstory is gorgeous.
Playground too! Feels like it, along with The Maniac and Same Bed Different Dreams, should be required reading as we tap our way toward the technohellscape we seem determined to create. Plus the bit about the “impossibility of having made it over the finish line together” hits on so many different levels!
Adding Same Bed to my list
This is a great. Thanks for writing about this. When I opened Fancy Groceries a few years ago, I thought to myself man I don't want to just have another store full of plastic, so our whole vibe for the last 3 years has been about what's in the cloth. I only curate plastic free clothes made from natural materials. It's not easy to do, but it's worth it.
Yung Plane your points about fabric and really getting down to what's inside it resonated with me so much!
It got me thinking about my employer Caterpillar's 798 AC Very Heavy Mining Dump Truck: https://www.cat.com/en_US/products/new/equipment/off-highway-trucks/mining-trucks/15970073.html
If anyone in spy nation has a large-scale strip mining operation you should really check one out! They let you see not just what's *on* the earth, but what's *in* the earth too!
hahhaha very conflicted... i don't think we're a pro-strip-mining sletter, and yet...
a. we do love looking into giant holes in the ground and
b. that is a very handsome piece of equipment
I would counter that 'in the cloth' has been a popular idea for almost all of fashion's history- for a small subset of designers and consumers who could afford such inherent quality. The designers you listed certainly fall into that.
What I'm more intrigued by is the opportunity for 'in the cloth' to actually become accessible to a broader swathe. The Digital Product Passport emanating from the EU is top of mind for every fast fashion brand on the planet. The heart of that regulation is essentially centered around 'in the cloth'. We see massive brands driving deeper investment into regenerative wool and cotton production in order to keep pace with impact goals and reporting. We could certainly argue that any mass production erodes a certain je nais se quois one would find in a coat woven from a small flock of sheep on the neighboring hillside. Still, can better material choices actually reign triumphant at scale? There are some interesting examples of this from Sally Fox's early work with Levis and Lands End.
There's so much in the thread. I love using selvedge edged linen on all of the tea towels in my shop because it cuts my labor in half - only two edges to cut and sew. The edge has character and the drape is so much better. Faster looms and sewing machines like the serger replaced decorative and utilitarian seam finishing - my favorite part of vintage clothing is the finished inside without the ugly zig zag of threads. Viva la finished edge! Viva la French seam!
Love a clean seam 👍🏻
This really resonated for me in terms of makers, intentionality and care and appreciation of beautiful and functional clothing.
Picked up the Dana Lee Brown sweatshirt on your recommendation and not sure if I could’ve survived this NY winter without it. A new favorite/staple
it's a beast in disguise
immediately thought of online ceramics new line of clothes clothes and then you referenced the graphic tees, i think they are getting it too, there's a limit to these things...less of a limit, more of a balance? the pants look nice!
Intriguing! And I get it - especially when you see the substandard version of everything as prices go up, and quality goes down. But this verges a little bit into Stars-On-Thars territory (Sneetches, check it out). The impossibility of buying a coat made of grass, or flying to Paris for the ultra cool pants… well. That’s kind of for the Star Bellied Sneetches, if you know what I mean.
had to google a synopsis - not a seuss i've ever read, but i'm curious to do so - if I follow your point, i think it's what i'm alluding to with the thing at the end about intricate cloth becoming its own kind of sign & fetish....
when i think about this topic generally I often consider the parallels with organic farming, which in the U.S. exists broadly / effectively as a luxury category, because that is where the market wants it, whereas in countries with a healthier regulatory apparatus (among other protections) you find higher quality food at greater scale and lower cost
Yes Re: fetish. But your point is a great one. We create the demand by altering our buying habits. But the profit motive of an industry is a very big ship to turn, as you know. Right now, the “top of the line” ($$) women’s wool overcoat at J. Crew does not have a lining. It’s basically crap. Will we reach a point when no one remembers that coats should have a lining by the time that ship has turned?
Spyplane, check the Burton mine 77 merino kit with the alligator camo Engineered Knit. These are 100% merino wool and are woolmark certified manufactured in Japan.
I’ve worn religiously since they’ve arrived in the frozen tundra that is nyc the last few weeks.
https://www.burton.com/us/en/c/mine-77
With regard to thingness, materiality and care, I'd love to shout out my dear friend Elaine Goddard's new line of women's wetsuits, Basalt, made in Japan from sustainable limestone rubber and designed with a curved front zip, and panelling mapped for women's bodies. I've been watching her work for years on creating a design that improves her own surfing experience and welcomes more women into the water. They just launched in January and it's a really special project to keep your eye on.