Turbo Jewelry Talk
With rising star Zoé Mohm. Plus, how to wear color, the coolest place to put a pin, mending kits & more
This is Concorde, Blackbird Spyplane’s “women’s vertical,” except it’s for everyone who is cool. Every edition is archived here.
The B.L.I.S.S. List — a helpful rundown of Beautiful Life-Improving Spyplane Staples, from perfume to notebooks, is here.
Mach 3+ city intel for traveling the entire planet is here. Spyfriends recently shared intel gathered in Chicago, Charlotte and Tbilisi.
In today’s Concorde:
What a new drop from one of our favorite small European lines has to teach us about how to wear color
The coolest place to put a pin
I bought scrap kits from a great linen smith and used them to mend holes and whip up DIY noren. Plus, a list of menders-for-hire
A just-launched bag collab from one of my top 5 designers
But first!
I (Erin) am tapping in with Zoé Mohm, a young artistic genius whose jewelry calls to mind so many masters — Asawa, Brâncuşi, Calder, Soleri — while creating an entirely new language of its own.
Zoé, who works mainly on commission and makes everything toute seule in her Paris apartment, flicks the wrist across media, turning out not just jewelry but also objects, tools & accessories like the hand-carved boxwood salad servers, orchid-topped bottle stopper, hammered shell-shaped ashtray, and woven brass pannier / phone case all pictured below.
In her hands, metal becomes woven fabric, web-like “A Knight’s Tale” mesh, dabs of paint, mounds of clay. It’s alive with movement: Bracelets spout cascading tassels, flowers trapeze from earrings’ articulating hinges. She cites medieval tapestries and comic books as inspirations and runs everything through her own powerful alchemical swag, evident to anyone who’s seen her IG page:
I’ve been following Zoé’s work for a minute, including limited drops she’s made for Cristaseya and Old Jewelry. When I saw that she collaborated with Spyplane-approved French line Rier, whose post-GORP fleece earned a place in our 2024 Slappy Awards, I decided it was time to tap in.
We talked about the Rier collection, resisting the pressure for “growth” and the coolest way to wear pins right now.
Concorde: Hi Zoé, is it true that you make everything by yourself in your apartment?
Zoé Mohm: “Yes, and it’s not really easy. You’re alone with all your tools. I don’t have space to ask anyone to come and help me. There’s silver dust everywhere, which is not super convenient to have in your flat.”
Concorde: We love and respect single-maker operations. As your work has caught on, have you felt pressure to grow?