Thanks for this. Great to read such an in-depth interview in English with one of my favorite designers of the day. And so awesome to know the details behind some of these fabrics. I’ll read the fabrics’ descriptions online sometimes, but love how he gets into the process here — it really gives a sense of the humans (and animals!) behind, and the labor that goes into, all these great pieces.
This is sick! I remember searching for interviews with Ryota Iwai and there was not much out there. It's great to see the thinking that leads to the clothes I love.
I saw a coat from auralee at neighbor that I was obsessed with, a hooded canvas jacket with a removable wool liner. The texture of the canvas outer and the color of the wool liner just absolutely hooked me. Debated for weeks on whether I could spend that much on a piece of clothing (literally did some journalling about it lol) but ended up pulling the trigger and now I look forward to the nyc winters so I can start wearing it again.
I can't remember the source but I read somewhere that auralee has a relationship with (is owned by?) a massive textiles manufacturing co that gives it the ability to source and create these incredible fabrics. Curious if anyone has any more insight or details on that, it's fascinating to me how huge companies and globe spanning supply chains can be harnesses by small teams and individuals to make beautiful things. Without them being consumed by the behemoth of course.
This structure presumably helped with their fabric development but I was curious to hear Ryota talk about the network of specialists in addition to working in-house. FWIW they are apparently no longer under the same owner, but I don’t know the particulars
Yeah the regional manufacturing specialties in Japan are kinda incredible, visiting Tokyo rn (thanks for the guides 🙏, excited to contribute to the thread once we're back) and the extent to which even small labels here have access to beautiful fabrics and materials is kinda mindblowing. We can be just walking around Setagaya, walk into a second floor store of a brand I'd never heard off and find shirts in a beautiful cotton-linen blend woven in Japan (https://www.novastoretokyo.com/)
Dear Jonah, I remember you once mentioned that Auralee might be a factory brand, meaning Ryota was hired by a factory. Are they independent now, or have they always been independent?
This came up in another comment here actually: they were a factory brand, owned by the same parent company as kaptain sunshine, but now apparently are independent
Man has me out here looking into the feasibility of raising a cashmere goat herd. Great read.
Thanks for this. Great to read such an in-depth interview in English with one of my favorite designers of the day. And so awesome to know the details behind some of these fabrics. I’ll read the fabrics’ descriptions online sometimes, but love how he gets into the process here — it really gives a sense of the humans (and animals!) behind, and the labor that goes into, all these great pieces.
I have a BS in fashion and this is fascinating. The fabric development focus is similar to Dries Van Noten process (sans print).
Wow, that commitment to and understanding of fabric and materials is rad!
The 🐐
If anyone is still looking for the wool max canvas jacket in red, I saw Kith (I know, definitely not the best retailer) has one in a size 4 https://kith.com/collections/auralee/products/a25sb03wc?variant=45129694675072
This is sick! I remember searching for interviews with Ryota Iwai and there was not much out there. It's great to see the thinking that leads to the clothes I love.
I saw a coat from auralee at neighbor that I was obsessed with, a hooded canvas jacket with a removable wool liner. The texture of the canvas outer and the color of the wool liner just absolutely hooked me. Debated for weeks on whether I could spend that much on a piece of clothing (literally did some journalling about it lol) but ended up pulling the trigger and now I look forward to the nyc winters so I can start wearing it again.
I can't remember the source but I read somewhere that auralee has a relationship with (is owned by?) a massive textiles manufacturing co that gives it the ability to source and create these incredible fabrics. Curious if anyone has any more insight or details on that, it's fascinating to me how huge companies and globe spanning supply chains can be harnesses by small teams and individuals to make beautiful things. Without them being consumed by the behemoth of course.
I know that canvas liner jacket, it’s great — one of the cooler pieces they’ve made
I think you might be talking about us, re Auralee as factory brand: https://www.blackbirdspyplane.com/p/why-did-we-go-to-fashion-week
This structure presumably helped with their fabric development but I was curious to hear Ryota talk about the network of specialists in addition to working in-house. FWIW they are apparently no longer under the same owner, but I don’t know the particulars
Yeah the regional manufacturing specialties in Japan are kinda incredible, visiting Tokyo rn (thanks for the guides 🙏, excited to contribute to the thread once we're back) and the extent to which even small labels here have access to beautiful fabrics and materials is kinda mindblowing. We can be just walking around Setagaya, walk into a second floor store of a brand I'd never heard off and find shirts in a beautiful cotton-linen blend woven in Japan (https://www.novastoretokyo.com/)
Incredible insight into his way of thinking
Thanks for this - fascinating and inspiring.
Dear Jonah, I remember you once mentioned that Auralee might be a factory brand, meaning Ryota was hired by a factory. Are they independent now, or have they always been independent?
This came up in another comment here actually: they were a factory brand, owned by the same parent company as kaptain sunshine, but now apparently are independent
timely interview bc I just acquired the HoF wool max jacket in red - the fabric and color is even better than I could imagined
Was just wearing that this weekend - HoF is right