I saved this one for a while so I could properly digest it and it did NOT disappoint.
That last line: whoa. While I'm not trying to play devil's advocate, often the difference for me shopping independent IRL versus massive retailer online is the experience itself, and the fact that in 2023, getting information from a brand about who carries their stuff is sometimes akin to getting blood from a stone (someone who works for a brand, please explain this to me).
Great read, especially the ending. It informs a lot of my ssense spending which is usually on stuff I already know about or have seen in better context (tabis, camions) whenever I explore on ssense I get this feeling after a bit like none of it matters or is interesting at all
My fave Spyplane read so far. Thx for the investigative reporting and providing us with the low down on ssense. Sequoia investment says it all, this is a profit machine at all costs - human, creative, ecological, etc.
I think the dirty secret that anyone with industry experience will tell you is that for most brands, markups are OBSCENE if consumers are buying stuff at MSRP. Materials, labor, and logistics are a fraction of the sticker price, and the rest is going to various "intangibles" along the way.
As someone who lives in a smaller market without a lot of exciting local retailers, something like SSENSE is sort of a blessing; I can access quality, interesting jawns in a convenient way. While it feels cool to support independent retailers, besides a handwritten note and a fuzzy feeling it doesn't really add much value when all I'm doing is opening up a cardboard box a delivery service dropped off.
Maybe we need to see a bit of a different buying and selling culture, looking to a place like Japan for inspiration. You know that if someone is stocking Kapital they're going to be a top-tier joint with excellent, knowledgeable staff presenting it well, and that they'll be keeping the line around for a while. Could this be on the side of brands to limit where they're selling, and buyers to make a multi-season commitment, even if that first one gets marked down?
Great report King. I feel like (at least publicly) they only, just a few years ago, got outside investment from Sequoia. That would mean they must have been running the business sustainably for all the years prior. That's not blitzscaling. I understand how they are harming the market but I wouldn't yet call them an Amazon because i don't know that they're trying to become a monopoly or have an outsized market share.
1) They have so many brands, but the site layout makes it really hard to actually discover them. Even some simple filter like Japanese or women-run brands would be nice.
2) To their credit, their styling is excellent (probably because it's done by intuition and not algorithm!)
3) Someone should build a Chrome extension SSENSE wishlist so they don't get any wishlist data for their algorithms! (Also their wishlist sucks because you can't sort it in any way)
4) Spot on that, probably because of the quantity of items, they give basically no valuable info on the products, adding to the "flatness" of the site
5) Their customer service is one of the worst I've ever seen including often cancelling ordered items with no explanation and major shipping delays as mentioned in previous comment
Is Ssense hurting the cool-clothes ecosystem?
This is high-quality stuff appreciate the work you guys do!
Is basic space a solution
I saved this one for a while so I could properly digest it and it did NOT disappoint.
That last line: whoa. While I'm not trying to play devil's advocate, often the difference for me shopping independent IRL versus massive retailer online is the experience itself, and the fact that in 2023, getting information from a brand about who carries their stuff is sometimes akin to getting blood from a stone (someone who works for a brand, please explain this to me).
Great article. All this activity needs to be exposed by these posers
Great read, especially the ending. It informs a lot of my ssense spending which is usually on stuff I already know about or have seen in better context (tabis, camions) whenever I explore on ssense I get this feeling after a bit like none of it matters or is interesting at all
Agree, solid sletter! Eye and Jaw Dropping content! Salute to you- take the week of hahaha. Well deserved IMO.
10/10
My fave Spyplane read so far. Thx for the investigative reporting and providing us with the low down on ssense. Sequoia investment says it all, this is a profit machine at all costs - human, creative, ecological, etc.
Great Sletter as always, thanks for going into so much detail this was very eye opening!
I think the dirty secret that anyone with industry experience will tell you is that for most brands, markups are OBSCENE if consumers are buying stuff at MSRP. Materials, labor, and logistics are a fraction of the sticker price, and the rest is going to various "intangibles" along the way.
As someone who lives in a smaller market without a lot of exciting local retailers, something like SSENSE is sort of a blessing; I can access quality, interesting jawns in a convenient way. While it feels cool to support independent retailers, besides a handwritten note and a fuzzy feeling it doesn't really add much value when all I'm doing is opening up a cardboard box a delivery service dropped off.
Maybe we need to see a bit of a different buying and selling culture, looking to a place like Japan for inspiration. You know that if someone is stocking Kapital they're going to be a top-tier joint with excellent, knowledgeable staff presenting it well, and that they'll be keeping the line around for a while. Could this be on the side of brands to limit where they're selling, and buyers to make a multi-season commitment, even if that first one gets marked down?
"Making cents from nonSsense" sounds like a dope guide BBSP will be putting out very soon.
Great report King. I feel like (at least publicly) they only, just a few years ago, got outside investment from Sequoia. That would mean they must have been running the business sustainably for all the years prior. That's not blitzscaling. I understand how they are harming the market but I wouldn't yet call them an Amazon because i don't know that they're trying to become a monopoly or have an outsized market share.
Sweetu over everything
And just how do you pronounce their website? Is it like Essence or just sssssssence?
Great report, thanks very much.
Great post! Some random thoughts:
1) They have so many brands, but the site layout makes it really hard to actually discover them. Even some simple filter like Japanese or women-run brands would be nice.
2) To their credit, their styling is excellent (probably because it's done by intuition and not algorithm!)
3) Someone should build a Chrome extension SSENSE wishlist so they don't get any wishlist data for their algorithms! (Also their wishlist sucks because you can't sort it in any way)
4) Spot on that, probably because of the quantity of items, they give basically no valuable info on the products, adding to the "flatness" of the site
5) Their customer service is one of the worst I've ever seen including often cancelling ordered items with no explanation and major shipping delays as mentioned in previous comment