To clarify some things - overlock, flatlock (lap seams for knits), and cover stitch are all very distinct, and there's a new dark horse for performance knits that's very earth friendly (the merrow active seam).
Overlock has been in use in factory made garments for roughly 120 years, and while not the choice of Fashion People, it is efficient, and with the 516 5-thread safety stitch, it can hold a garment together well. It's also the Correct Inseam for repro jeans other than cowboy cut jams.
Cover stitch is honestly the best way to stick knit cuffs on knits, and to hem knits. There are other options like the much vaunted single-stitch for vintage tees, but that's getting into fussy details. The type 406 cover stitch looks clean on the outside - two neat rows of stitching - and the interior part captures the raw edge in one shot.
Lap seams - flatlock for knitwear, flatfell for wovens - use very similar machines that are no joke to operate. The machines allow for tubes to be closed elegantly with their off-the-arm setup, and there are some truly weird up-the-arm machines from the early 20th century for closing up sleeves. One of the interesting things one can do with a flat fell machine is close up a fully constructed shirt from hem to cuff, rather than adding sleeves to a vest but that's a wildly rambling discussion of the boundaries of shirt-dom from workshirt to dress shirt.
It is possible to hand-fell on a single needle if you really hate life as an operator but it does give a certain "in the know" flex to a garment.
Single needle seams in general (french, bound, hong kong, etc) are the finest but as mentioned, not always the best choice.
I probably missed a bunch of stuff but there's so much detail under the surface once you start digging into construction. That said, there's no excuse for Bode to overlock their $590 chinos.
Big (Japanese) denim nerd here. I definitely enjoy checking all the seams, rivets, chain stitching and other details. Definitely makes me appreciate the garment as a whole more. But never really checked out anything else in my wardrobe…🤔
i took an introductory sewing class and was essentially taught there’s lots of dif seam options for wovens but knit fabrics=use an overlock machine + cover stitch machine for the hems. do some brands use flat felled seams on knitted fabric? are there other more upscale alternatives specific to knits/sweats?
Great piece. I’m an amateur at sewing, figured I’d share what I like and my experience repairing some of these types of seams. I know this was more focused on woven fabrics, but a you also see exposed flatlock seams on a lot of repro and vintage knitted items like loopwheeled 50s-60s era athletic clothing. It almost makes the fabrics look like they were joined rather than folded over each other. Even with a thread that color matches the fabric, they give a nice contrast effect. These also often need a separate machine. I tend to judge them by how messy they look and where they choose to use this method (for example I have a shirt that has overlock seams on the sides of the body but flat felled seams on the sleeves where you might roll the fabric up hence exposing the seam).
Also I recently repaired an old French chore coat I got (shout out Suay Sew Shop in LA) without a lap seam foot and let me tell you those things are not fun to put back together yourself if the stitching comes undone. I noticed early signs of some broken thread on one of my seams and promptly hand sewed over the spot with some matching thread.
Lastly binding seams really can be hit or miss. I’d say check where the stitching is on the binding. I’m always impressed when the garment workers are able to get the stitching right up on the edge without running off. My first time finishing with bias tape was awful because it’s so easy to run off the edge or sew too far from it.
i wear my Comoli shirt inside out because the breast pocket finishing blows my mind and i shall henceforth be known as mach 7 swag lord. not to brag but i did wear 3 watches on one arm in grade 6 and the teachers thought something was wrong w me.
Oh hell yes +1 for this recon. Long time seam fiend here, and I love the deeper look at why some choices are made depending on fabric and how it will hang, wear, respond to laundering etc. An adjacent interest for me is “bar-tacking” on certain hard wearing pieces or any points of strain. It blows my mind that some brands or designers will neglect to address this and you end up with a torn situation three wears in. Nothing like wearing a hoodie that cost triple digits and having the kangaroo pocket tear away at a corner immediately. Edit : changed price of hoodie to reflect insane amounts I will pay for a sweatshirt
Context - I've been gathering up machines alongside learning pattern making, and industrial sewing techniques. Useful PDF here for lingo and types: https://www.amefird.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/10/Stitch-Type-Matrix.pdf
To clarify some things - overlock, flatlock (lap seams for knits), and cover stitch are all very distinct, and there's a new dark horse for performance knits that's very earth friendly (the merrow active seam).
Overlock has been in use in factory made garments for roughly 120 years, and while not the choice of Fashion People, it is efficient, and with the 516 5-thread safety stitch, it can hold a garment together well. It's also the Correct Inseam for repro jeans other than cowboy cut jams.
Cover stitch is honestly the best way to stick knit cuffs on knits, and to hem knits. There are other options like the much vaunted single-stitch for vintage tees, but that's getting into fussy details. The type 406 cover stitch looks clean on the outside - two neat rows of stitching - and the interior part captures the raw edge in one shot.
Lap seams - flatlock for knitwear, flatfell for wovens - use very similar machines that are no joke to operate. The machines allow for tubes to be closed elegantly with their off-the-arm setup, and there are some truly weird up-the-arm machines from the early 20th century for closing up sleeves. One of the interesting things one can do with a flat fell machine is close up a fully constructed shirt from hem to cuff, rather than adding sleeves to a vest but that's a wildly rambling discussion of the boundaries of shirt-dom from workshirt to dress shirt.
It is possible to hand-fell on a single needle if you really hate life as an operator but it does give a certain "in the know" flex to a garment.
Single needle seams in general (french, bound, hong kong, etc) are the finest but as mentioned, not always the best choice.
I probably missed a bunch of stuff but there's so much detail under the surface once you start digging into construction. That said, there's no excuse for Bode to overlock their $590 chinos.
Big (Japanese) denim nerd here. I definitely enjoy checking all the seams, rivets, chain stitching and other details. Definitely makes me appreciate the garment as a whole more. But never really checked out anything else in my wardrobe…🤔
i took an introductory sewing class and was essentially taught there’s lots of dif seam options for wovens but knit fabrics=use an overlock machine + cover stitch machine for the hems. do some brands use flat felled seams on knitted fabric? are there other more upscale alternatives specific to knits/sweats?
Great piece. I’m an amateur at sewing, figured I’d share what I like and my experience repairing some of these types of seams. I know this was more focused on woven fabrics, but a you also see exposed flatlock seams on a lot of repro and vintage knitted items like loopwheeled 50s-60s era athletic clothing. It almost makes the fabrics look like they were joined rather than folded over each other. Even with a thread that color matches the fabric, they give a nice contrast effect. These also often need a separate machine. I tend to judge them by how messy they look and where they choose to use this method (for example I have a shirt that has overlock seams on the sides of the body but flat felled seams on the sleeves where you might roll the fabric up hence exposing the seam).
Also I recently repaired an old French chore coat I got (shout out Suay Sew Shop in LA) without a lap seam foot and let me tell you those things are not fun to put back together yourself if the stitching comes undone. I noticed early signs of some broken thread on one of my seams and promptly hand sewed over the spot with some matching thread.
Lastly binding seams really can be hit or miss. I’d say check where the stitching is on the binding. I’m always impressed when the garment workers are able to get the stitching right up on the edge without running off. My first time finishing with bias tape was awful because it’s so easy to run off the edge or sew too far from it.
Massively bummed to be missing the party (I didn't know Quentin DJs????) but this post was sick ty
Great post
Posts like this are why I subscribe!!
Thank you for this post!!! As a swag queen acolyte this is the intel I need <3
i wear my Comoli shirt inside out because the breast pocket finishing blows my mind and i shall henceforth be known as mach 7 swag lord. not to brag but i did wear 3 watches on one arm in grade 6 and the teachers thought something was wrong w me.
Oh hell yes +1 for this recon. Long time seam fiend here, and I love the deeper look at why some choices are made depending on fabric and how it will hang, wear, respond to laundering etc. An adjacent interest for me is “bar-tacking” on certain hard wearing pieces or any points of strain. It blows my mind that some brands or designers will neglect to address this and you end up with a torn situation three wears in. Nothing like wearing a hoodie that cost triple digits and having the kangaroo pocket tear away at a corner immediately. Edit : changed price of hoodie to reflect insane amounts I will pay for a sweatshirt
Would love more pieces like this! Great stuff
Amazing post!!! 🧵 🪡