I watched a few videos by a channel I won't mention by name, because I'm not trying to start anything here. In each the person was thrown a box, took out a garment, and then proceeded to take it apart on a cutting mat, discussing what they liked and found questionable. At the end they did a little round up and offered an opinion on if the garment was "worth it".
It was all pretty chill and I think an ok way to engage with clothing. It also left me feeling totally empty, even sad. Like if a restaurant reviewer just went through all the ingredients on a plate and then the method used to cook them, delivering a final grade on whether the meal was worth it. I mean, maybe someone would like that—ugh—content. But would it contribute anything meaningful to our appreciation of food? (Please don't @ me with examples of this very thing.)
Sidenote: on my last trip to Japan I picked up an Auralee quarter-zip top. It is a lovely, muted yellow, undeniably well-made, but it was the fabric that sold me. I've never touched cotton like this, and maybe should never again because it will ruin all other cottons for me. I know there's multiple levels of privilege operating in this anecdote so I'm not going to say, AURALEE DEFO WORTH IT. Only that I hope to own it til I get cremated.
I think part of the reason people watch this guy is because of the internet is now the way we experience clothing. the cool shirt you've seen? You've seen in on a screen, or heard about it on a podcast. You view the shirt on an online retailer, seeing that it costs 500.
This guy is making videos, promising to be some kind of garment-inspector so that YOU, the internet consumer can make an informed decision on your purchase because you have no idea how the item looks or feels in real life.
That's how they value the shirt. The more the lines crisscross and the patterns overlap. 'Cause if you're saying they're not complicated... They are. They are.
I think the most insidious part about Fab's methodology is that the audience could be convinced that more handiwork and flourishes mean more cost, which automatically translates into more value (even for a high price). And, that the opposite is true.
This crumbles like a cookie.
A beautiful, hand-crafted bespoke suit that costs $10,000 might be very well justified on the "quality" scale, but is it worth it for me to buy it if I'm going to wear it once every 3 years?
An elegant shirt by The Row with perfect shoulders and a unique fabric that looks drapey and dope might be universally praised as a great piece, but is it worth it if I find it so precious I'm scared to wear it in public lest it catch a stray from some mustard or cocktail sauce?
A well-made, contemporary shirt from Vince doesn't break the bank, but if the fabric and fit are so uninteresting that the damn thing gathers dust in the bottom of my closet, should I have bought it in the first place?
Learning about the technical aspects of clothing is interesting and helps inform buying decisions. It's just important to remember that this is only one aspect of actually making GOOD decisions.
I’ve watched a number of Fabricateuralist‘s videos. I get the premise. I don’t want to be a mark. His analysis of Drake’s shirts, for example, left me wondering if they’re worth it. Feels somewhat valuable in terms of judging whether clothing is $500 because of the work put in or the just because of the label. But yeah, definitely fraught methodology for missing the more philosophical aspect of wearing it. I also never thought of it as competency p*rn but that shoe does fit. Super interesting takes all around.
It's come to this? Quality checking the quality checker? Expertise has always been about performance, that's nothing new. Don't hold a measuring tape up to this guy -- the ineffables are still what people find interesting.
I watched a few videos by a channel I won't mention by name, because I'm not trying to start anything here. In each the person was thrown a box, took out a garment, and then proceeded to take it apart on a cutting mat, discussing what they liked and found questionable. At the end they did a little round up and offered an opinion on if the garment was "worth it".
It was all pretty chill and I think an ok way to engage with clothing. It also left me feeling totally empty, even sad. Like if a restaurant reviewer just went through all the ingredients on a plate and then the method used to cook them, delivering a final grade on whether the meal was worth it. I mean, maybe someone would like that—ugh—content. But would it contribute anything meaningful to our appreciation of food? (Please don't @ me with examples of this very thing.)
Sidenote: on my last trip to Japan I picked up an Auralee quarter-zip top. It is a lovely, muted yellow, undeniably well-made, but it was the fabric that sold me. I've never touched cotton like this, and maybe should never again because it will ruin all other cottons for me. I know there's multiple levels of privilege operating in this anecdote so I'm not going to say, AURALEE DEFO WORTH IT. Only that I hope to own it til I get cremated.
I saw a pic on his IG where he’s wearing white sole dress shoes. I think that settles it.
I think part of the reason people watch this guy is because of the internet is now the way we experience clothing. the cool shirt you've seen? You've seen in on a screen, or heard about it on a podcast. You view the shirt on an online retailer, seeing that it costs 500.
This guy is making videos, promising to be some kind of garment-inspector so that YOU, the internet consumer can make an informed decision on your purchase because you have no idea how the item looks or feels in real life.
That's how they value the shirt. The more the lines crisscross and the patterns overlap. 'Cause if you're saying they're not complicated... They are. They are.
I think the most insidious part about Fab's methodology is that the audience could be convinced that more handiwork and flourishes mean more cost, which automatically translates into more value (even for a high price). And, that the opposite is true.
This crumbles like a cookie.
A beautiful, hand-crafted bespoke suit that costs $10,000 might be very well justified on the "quality" scale, but is it worth it for me to buy it if I'm going to wear it once every 3 years?
An elegant shirt by The Row with perfect shoulders and a unique fabric that looks drapey and dope might be universally praised as a great piece, but is it worth it if I find it so precious I'm scared to wear it in public lest it catch a stray from some mustard or cocktail sauce?
A well-made, contemporary shirt from Vince doesn't break the bank, but if the fabric and fit are so uninteresting that the damn thing gathers dust in the bottom of my closet, should I have bought it in the first place?
Learning about the technical aspects of clothing is interesting and helps inform buying decisions. It's just important to remember that this is only one aspect of actually making GOOD decisions.
I’ve watched a number of Fabricateuralist‘s videos. I get the premise. I don’t want to be a mark. His analysis of Drake’s shirts, for example, left me wondering if they’re worth it. Feels somewhat valuable in terms of judging whether clothing is $500 because of the work put in or the just because of the label. But yeah, definitely fraught methodology for missing the more philosophical aspect of wearing it. I also never thought of it as competency p*rn but that shoe does fit. Super interesting takes all around.
It's come to this? Quality checking the quality checker? Expertise has always been about performance, that's nothing new. Don't hold a measuring tape up to this guy -- the ineffables are still what people find interesting.