“…You are a truth-telling renegade who co-creates an anti-consumerist dope-clothes culture sletter…”. ♥️♥️♥️😍😍😍
I’m not following the story about the independent label who was asked by a retailer to make more as a Jedi mind trick to stop others from buying it? If they didn’t want others to carry it, wouldn’t they just buy it all up and create scarcity?
There is such an ingrained bias for and against clothing being made in certain countries, as you have previously mentioned with the “made in the USA” label. I’m sure if garment workers in turkey/India/Bangladesh were given the tools to prioritise quality over quantity there would be no discernible difference.
Appreciate you and reading about your experience at pfw. What you shared resonates deeply and makes complete sense. After all, no matter how swagful, dope and big brained, we're still social animals bound to these dynamics and emotions.
One thing I wanted to call out and maybe challenge a bit:
"We wanted to do IRL recon into the near future of clothing"
Especially the latter part of the sentence. You guys don't need to go pfw to understand the near future of clothing (I know you know this), because in fact you guys are 1. already so attuned with the future of clothing 2. tastemakers crafting a vision for the future of clothing, through this blessed sletter, one which I'd argue has real impact on the world of fashion as you are read by and kept tabs on by many people in the industry.
Maybe you don't have 500k or 1M followers, and this makes you fall on the outer rings of the pfw middle school cafeteria. But that, as you said it yourself, is the point of being a renegade. At risk of sounding buzzwordy, I'd say you guys fall into this category of iykyk impact of being in the fashion person's favorite fashon person cool kids club haha and that to me is a way cooler place to be than sitting first row for no good reason other than being famous.
Glad you guys had fun, hung with and made new friends and saw cool clothes in Paris :)
This is one of the best takes I’ve read on fashion week. Thanks for the honesty. The Shame section is completely real. I hope that’s not the dark energy fueling the industry, but I fear it is, and you really touched on something with this.
It might be one of the more negative reasons I moved away from Paris to Portland.
Dark energy does have a gravitational pull, though, and I find myself back there all too often. At least this time, it meant that I got to see the BBSP team in person and fight through the crowds at your event at Le Mary Celeste for the opportunity!
So much to unpack from this ‘sletter! The idea of fashion elitism and walled gardens and pricing could be a whole update to “The Theory of the Leisure Class.”
Anyway, keep up the excellent work; I hope you stay on the fringes but I won’t begrudge you the inevitable front row seats!
(Fun fact and connection, both the Lemaire show and the Auralee show had music provided by Cedric Pilooski)
screenshot worthy to remind myself that I too am a renegade most comfortable lurking in the tree line! I am really happy I subscribed to your newsletter.
hi Victoria -- this is the "Big Pocket Jacket" by Oliver Church, a very gifted Spyfriend who makes everything himself in Paris, mostly using antique French fabrics and in this case natural dyed https://www.instagram.com/oliverchurch_singulargarments/
Man, this is exactly why I hate fashion week, but not sure I’ve ever spelled it out in these terms. Loved the lo-res surveillance-style shots of you on the sidelines, too. No shame! And you’re right about Lemaire; excellent designs (I also thought that this and Auralee were the two best shows of Paris), but I’m often disappointed by the quality and “made in” tags vis-à-vis the price point (though maybe Lemaire is just being more honest than the redacted luxury line you mention!). As for Auralee, that collection is so good (no surprise), maybe its best in a few years. And it’s been on that sage-green kick for a while (CHCM house line, too!)—I meant to mention this when Erin brought it up in the last Concorde—but, just generally, Iwai has the best palette and fabrics, and other lines are playing catch-up!
You lost a smidge of my heart when you did the pfw biz, I thought oh no, they're just more fashion people. Well consider it recovered and enrichened via your motherloving ode to fully realised selfness and the beautiful articulation of of your true calling. Respect.
The “shame” section perfectly describes feelings I recognize and fight in myself (for the same reasons you do here ) re the art world @ the arts fairs and biennials —which is what I cover. That line about pretending you are blowing off soemthing you didn’t even know about and/or wasn’t invited to. 💋
Love the jacket you have on. What is it?
Thank you, someone else asked elsewhere in here https://www.blackbirdspyplane.com/p/why-did-we-go-to-fashion-week/comment/60708975?
Standing in the space behind the bench is dark tbh. I understand
I think you misread me, the space behind the bench was my shit !!
Loved the honesty of this 👏
Enjoyed the self reflection ❤️💗
Standing Tall on behalf of us Spyfriends. Thanks for your service and representation.
“…You are a truth-telling renegade who co-creates an anti-consumerist dope-clothes culture sletter…”. ♥️♥️♥️😍😍😍
I’m not following the story about the independent label who was asked by a retailer to make more as a Jedi mind trick to stop others from buying it? If they didn’t want others to carry it, wouldn’t they just buy it all up and create scarcity?
They meant “make more styles”
Ah…makes sense.
There is such an ingrained bias for and against clothing being made in certain countries, as you have previously mentioned with the “made in the USA” label. I’m sure if garment workers in turkey/India/Bangladesh were given the tools to prioritise quality over quantity there would be no discernible difference.
Appreciate you and reading about your experience at pfw. What you shared resonates deeply and makes complete sense. After all, no matter how swagful, dope and big brained, we're still social animals bound to these dynamics and emotions.
One thing I wanted to call out and maybe challenge a bit:
"We wanted to do IRL recon into the near future of clothing"
Especially the latter part of the sentence. You guys don't need to go pfw to understand the near future of clothing (I know you know this), because in fact you guys are 1. already so attuned with the future of clothing 2. tastemakers crafting a vision for the future of clothing, through this blessed sletter, one which I'd argue has real impact on the world of fashion as you are read by and kept tabs on by many people in the industry.
Maybe you don't have 500k or 1M followers, and this makes you fall on the outer rings of the pfw middle school cafeteria. But that, as you said it yourself, is the point of being a renegade. At risk of sounding buzzwordy, I'd say you guys fall into this category of iykyk impact of being in the fashion person's favorite fashon person cool kids club haha and that to me is a way cooler place to be than sitting first row for no good reason other than being famous.
Glad you guys had fun, hung with and made new friends and saw cool clothes in Paris :)
🙏
Insecurity is temporary, knowing thyself is eternal, amen
This is one of the best takes I’ve read on fashion week. Thanks for the honesty. The Shame section is completely real. I hope that’s not the dark energy fueling the industry, but I fear it is, and you really touched on something with this.
It might be one of the more negative reasons I moved away from Paris to Portland.
Dark energy does have a gravitational pull, though, and I find myself back there all too often. At least this time, it meant that I got to see the BBSP team in person and fight through the crowds at your event at Le Mary Celeste for the opportunity!
So much to unpack from this ‘sletter! The idea of fashion elitism and walled gardens and pricing could be a whole update to “The Theory of the Leisure Class.”
Anyway, keep up the excellent work; I hope you stay on the fringes but I won’t begrudge you the inevitable front row seats!
(Fun fact and connection, both the Lemaire show and the Auralee show had music provided by Cedric Pilooski)
thank you Nur and great to say what's up at the party !
screenshot worthy to remind myself that I too am a renegade most comfortable lurking in the tree line! I am really happy I subscribed to your newsletter.
🌲🌲🌲
Hello!! maybe random but i am a new suscriber and was wondering where the lilac jacket Jonah is wearing? thanks!
hi Victoria -- this is the "Big Pocket Jacket" by Oliver Church, a very gifted Spyfriend who makes everything himself in Paris, mostly using antique French fabrics and in this case natural dyed https://www.instagram.com/oliverchurch_singulargarments/
interviewed him in paris a couple years ago --> btw https://www.blackbirdspyplane.com/p/wonders-of-paris
In a beautifully backwards world, that interview turned me onto the ‘plane, his work is top of my “one day” list.
that's v cool to hear !
Man, this is exactly why I hate fashion week, but not sure I’ve ever spelled it out in these terms. Loved the lo-res surveillance-style shots of you on the sidelines, too. No shame! And you’re right about Lemaire; excellent designs (I also thought that this and Auralee were the two best shows of Paris), but I’m often disappointed by the quality and “made in” tags vis-à-vis the price point (though maybe Lemaire is just being more honest than the redacted luxury line you mention!). As for Auralee, that collection is so good (no surprise), maybe its best in a few years. And it’s been on that sage-green kick for a while (CHCM house line, too!)—I meant to mention this when Erin brought it up in the last Concorde—but, just generally, Iwai has the best palette and fabrics, and other lines are playing catch-up!
Loved this recon and utter frankness. It’s why we love you!
You lost a smidge of my heart when you did the pfw biz, I thought oh no, they're just more fashion people. Well consider it recovered and enrichened via your motherloving ode to fully realised selfness and the beautiful articulation of of your true calling. Respect.
The “shame” section perfectly describes feelings I recognize and fight in myself (for the same reasons you do here ) re the art world @ the arts fairs and biennials —which is what I cover. That line about pretending you are blowing off soemthing you didn’t even know about and/or wasn’t invited to. 💋