It may or may not have been Fabio Borrelli, of Neapolitan shirtmaker Luigi Borrelli, who once told how he would Break the Seal on any new bespoke suit he got by wearing it on his next intercontinental flight, buttoned all the way, and sleeping in it, shoes off and curled up in his seat. Not before he had arrived in his hotel room, he said, would the suit even start to be his. Or something like that.
Biked to work in a secondhand genuine blue suede shift dress and feel great about it. My lifestyle of cycling, playgrounds and gardening in a four-season climate is made for the F.R.I.D.G.E. mindset, I refuse to bow to the business casual-athleisure “solution.” Finessing it for my professional/conservative work environment is not straightforward though!
That's been me wearing Japanese denim and my Kiko Asics as my uniform while making pottery at the wheel. 95% of the clay spots wash off, but the stains that stay are part of the story of the clothes. Needed to not feel precious about those clothes and live in them more
After the hearty BSP recommendation, I picked up the Stoffa open lace in black leather and I won't lie that they were very dainty at first glance and even giving some Bob Fosse energy, but I powered through and wore them a ton. Now they feel integral and dare I say foundational!
Forced myself to wear the wales bonner jewel sneakers (~100 depop steal cmon) to my barista job. Talk about butt clenching! It helps when your idealized 'vision' of a clothing item, in your head, has wear and tear on it.
Great piece! I’ve just been battling with a similar dilemma, I fairly recently copped a couple of MAN-TLE shirts (cordlane) and was surprised to find they were hand wash recommended as this seemed somewhat at odds with the hard-wearing vibe of the brand. I fear if I stick to that guidance I’ll just never end up wearing them, has anyone got experience with throwing them or similar in a gentle wash? I don’t need them to come out looking box fresh, just worried they might get damaged/shrink beyond rock ability. Cheers!
I love the cordlane pieces but don’t own any so can’t speak to this firsthand. All washing is technically damage — you just want the good, characterful, non-ruinous kind. And you definitely don’t want unintended shrink. You could start by putting them in a laundry bag and machine-washing them on the cold / handwash setting, followed by a line dry
Machine washed one of their silk shirts a couple of times with no issues. Still got a couple of olive oils splatters on it but it’s cold pressed, pure Italian so maybe that puts the fine in finely roasted.
Pretty much all the Man-tle stuff can be machine washed on cold, low spin, short cycle, and come out great. I’ve seen some slight shrinkage in their chambrays, but nothing major. My cordlane C1 has been through the wash a few times and feels great. Go for it!
Don't own any cordlane pieces, but when I went into the shop with one of their naturally dyed linen blend shirts on the guy working told me machine wash is fine, even though the label explicitly says hand wash.
Jonah - my heart has been transfixed by the Lemaire Vibram wrap sneakers of late, even while my brain continues to (justifiably) push back. Emotionally I know they're fire and I know the joy per wear will be out of this world. But the price! Mama mia. I try to live by the C.H.A.O.S. mindset, and I see you copped a pair on a "good deal." As one of my fashion rabbis, how do we justify when to break mindsets such as these, for a deal such as that? Obviously what constitutes a "good deal" is a very personal question, but is holding out for a sale for these patently wrong? Thanks - JD
I found and bought these on sale ! CHAOS is about not buying things *because* they’re on sale. If something you wanted was too expensive full price and you cop on sale you’re still CHAOS compliant 😉
It may or may not have been Fabio Borrelli, of Neapolitan shirtmaker Luigi Borrelli, who once told how he would Break the Seal on any new bespoke suit he got by wearing it on his next intercontinental flight, buttoned all the way, and sleeping in it, shoes off and curled up in his seat. Not before he had arrived in his hotel room, he said, would the suit even start to be his. Or something like that.
F.R.I.D.G.E.D out , amazing
Yeah you gotta break the seal on new suits pretty aggressively, even with bespoke stuff. The canvassing needs several wears to mold to your body.
Biked to work in a secondhand genuine blue suede shift dress and feel great about it. My lifestyle of cycling, playgrounds and gardening in a four-season climate is made for the F.R.I.D.G.E. mindset, I refuse to bow to the business casual-athleisure “solution.” Finessing it for my professional/conservative work environment is not straightforward though!
🔥
That's been me wearing Japanese denim and my Kiko Asics as my uniform while making pottery at the wheel. 95% of the clay spots wash off, but the stains that stay are part of the story of the clothes. Needed to not feel precious about those clothes and live in them more
Clay stains are top tier stains
would love to see a crossover sletter with erin about how women view mens style these days and vice versa.
After the hearty BSP recommendation, I picked up the Stoffa open lace in black leather and I won't lie that they were very dainty at first glance and even giving some Bob Fosse energy, but I powered through and wore them a ton. Now they feel integral and dare I say foundational!
that's tight - and you know fosse was probably swagging out in some scorched & scuffed slappers too
first time seeing the verb form of patina in PATINATE and i'm feeling annihilated by a rush of True Consciousness
This is the kind of service we provide
🙇♂️🙇♀️
man, you gotta show us the pants!
Let’s see if I can get him to send a good pic over
LOVE this! Been admiring Fergus Henderson's adherence to this principle with this (presumably Margaret Howell) Blazer https://www.instagram.com/p/C0KEFjOICIX/ and https://www.instagram.com/p/CbvJxZjI5bd/
My bet is that that jacket is from Old Town: https://labourandwait.co.uk/products/stanley-jacket-navy?variant=39436467765306
Looks like you are right - Bravo on the recon
Forced myself to wear the wales bonner jewel sneakers (~100 depop steal cmon) to my barista job. Talk about butt clenching! It helps when your idealized 'vision' of a clothing item, in your head, has wear and tear on it.
that's what's up. i'll go one further and say that cooking hyped sneakers to assert ownership over them is mandatory
wrote about this a few years ago when i saw a young swaglord rocking some FRICASSEED yeezy desert rats https://www.blackbirdspyplane.com/p/hyped-sneakers-sleepytime-tea-bear-vibe-movement
You gotta marinate and cook new sneakers before they ever look good. It’s a creed. Nothing like a blinding white shoe to tell me ur a poser
some love the pristine white sneaker but i have always preferred them thrashed
Great piece! I’ve just been battling with a similar dilemma, I fairly recently copped a couple of MAN-TLE shirts (cordlane) and was surprised to find they were hand wash recommended as this seemed somewhat at odds with the hard-wearing vibe of the brand. I fear if I stick to that guidance I’ll just never end up wearing them, has anyone got experience with throwing them or similar in a gentle wash? I don’t need them to come out looking box fresh, just worried they might get damaged/shrink beyond rock ability. Cheers!
I love the cordlane pieces but don’t own any so can’t speak to this firsthand. All washing is technically damage — you just want the good, characterful, non-ruinous kind. And you definitely don’t want unintended shrink. You could start by putting them in a laundry bag and machine-washing them on the cold / handwash setting, followed by a line dry
Machine washed one of their silk shirts a couple of times with no issues. Still got a couple of olive oils splatters on it but it’s cold pressed, pure Italian so maybe that puts the fine in finely roasted.
Mamma mia
Pretty much all the Man-tle stuff can be machine washed on cold, low spin, short cycle, and come out great. I’ve seen some slight shrinkage in their chambrays, but nothing major. My cordlane C1 has been through the wash a few times and feels great. Go for it!
Don't own any cordlane pieces, but when I went into the shop with one of their naturally dyed linen blend shirts on the guy working told me machine wash is fine, even though the label explicitly says hand wash.
Jonah - my heart has been transfixed by the Lemaire Vibram wrap sneakers of late, even while my brain continues to (justifiably) push back. Emotionally I know they're fire and I know the joy per wear will be out of this world. But the price! Mama mia. I try to live by the C.H.A.O.S. mindset, and I see you copped a pair on a "good deal." As one of my fashion rabbis, how do we justify when to break mindsets such as these, for a deal such as that? Obviously what constitutes a "good deal" is a very personal question, but is holding out for a sale for these patently wrong? Thanks - JD
I found and bought these on sale ! CHAOS is about not buying things *because* they’re on sale. If something you wanted was too expensive full price and you cop on sale you’re still CHAOS compliant 😉
I will say, try and try them on first - they have a kind of wedge heel / forward-tilted sole that I’m into but some people dislike the feel
Good to hear my mind is still set, and thanks for the tip. Will definitely try to check them out in person soon
Ah that's what you sound like!
enjoy these dulcet tones
JOY PER GARMENT!!!
the only metric that matters