Having sized up to the M - do you find the waist a bit large and cinching with a belt to be the way to go for this particular pant & man-tle silhouette?
I’m deciding whether or not to keep a slightly oversized L or size down to a M…
With planting this year’s breeding nursery, and then sheep shearing- I am only catching up on my reading now. Such an honor to have made this list of yours; which I appreciate deeply. Thank you sincerely!
During the dark days of the pandemic, I would hit the 18east drops for what I called my "emotional support robes." Their hand embroidered robes and Goreckis cargos became a wardrobe staple. I also have to shout out the Man-tle Earth color P4s. They are developing a nice patina over time, soft and receiving while feeling indestructible. :-)
Its great to see how so many of these brands have evolved over the years, even if I don't own a piece from a brand you still feel invested.
Even if it's not ranked, I feel Oliver Church deserves honorary first place.
Do you guys know Service Works? they also dropped chef "pants" in 2020 over in the UK, and blew up pretty quick over here. I don't recall seeing them mentioned on here.
It rings a bell, possibly because it's come up during recon, or someone's mentioned it in the Spychat over the years, or the name is just generic enough that it seems like something we've heard !
Fab sletter. I read Worn earlier this year and have been eagerly awaiting the official Plane Position on it. Such a hugely depressing read, but so essential. Got me wanting to plant some flax out in the yard and revive the once world class local wool industry where I live
Oh true! Before my time as a subscriber I think. Reckon I tried a vague search for it in the archives once but couldn’t find it. Will have to go back and read the review now!
Would be curious on your view of OAMC. The brand’s peak was pre- spy plane, but they were one of the best to ever do it in their prime. Fall Winter 2015 sets the bar for “luxury gorp that’s still hard for the streets.” The quality was unmatched - still have wool gabardine cargo pants, the nylon overshirt with the unbelievably hard gosgrain trim, thick knit sweaters, and a shearling from that collection that are going strong/near immaculate a decade later.
Luke Meier had a distinct style and was sad to see him leave Jil Sander. Their plus line was pricey but usually interesting
I'll confess it's a line I've long been ambiently aware of, and have seen some cool pieces from them, but have never really dug in! Need to find some fw15 specimens...
How about William Frederick’s studio pants?. The fabrics, silhouette, non fussiness as well as ease of wear is now one of my favorite elastic pants to wear hands down. Not to forget the price point…
While not something that (to my knowledge) has been mentioned here, the collection Older Brother and LA designed Lyle McGraw made is one of my favorites of the 2020s due to it being made from the scraps of past collections and its unique circle pocket motif
The Japanese clothing brand Ichi Antiquities, from Fukuoka, collaborated with Sally Fox for their spring and summer 2025 collections. Moth in Chicago will receive the summer collection in approximately one week!
Any idea when the tarvas wanderer will come out?
details are in flux but current timetable is fall '25
In the weeds Q on the iconic P4:
Having sized up to the M - do you find the waist a bit large and cinching with a belt to be the way to go for this particular pant & man-tle silhouette?
I’m deciding whether or not to keep a slightly oversized L or size down to a M…
That is what I do with my Ms yeah. Also you can wash them hot and “take them in” a little that way (also did this)
Think you’d wanna try on an m and see for yourself
With planting this year’s breeding nursery, and then sheep shearing- I am only catching up on my reading now. Such an honor to have made this list of yours; which I appreciate deeply. Thank you sincerely!
Saw the seed-planting and sheep-shearing videos you posted Sally, gathered you were in the thick of it!
During the dark days of the pandemic, I would hit the 18east drops for what I called my "emotional support robes." Their hand embroidered robes and Goreckis cargos became a wardrobe staple. I also have to shout out the Man-tle Earth color P4s. They are developing a nice patina over time, soft and receiving while feeling indestructible. :-)
ive got a cherished patchwork pair of goreckis, good call
You helped me track down the P4s at Glasswing shop. Bless up.
Big love for those meals pants, great list overall <3
yktfv dapo !
I have used and abused my swagtooths and they still look beautiful
You and me both
Is the “Your Ego is not Your Amigo” Tee also your favorite of theirs? If not, do you have a personal favorite?
Personally probably the uncut gems one or the first mushroom house / cactus shop one !
Its great to see how so many of these brands have evolved over the years, even if I don't own a piece from a brand you still feel invested.
Even if it's not ranked, I feel Oliver Church deserves honorary first place.
Do you guys know Service Works? they also dropped chef "pants" in 2020 over in the UK, and blew up pretty quick over here. I don't recall seeing them mentioned on here.
It rings a bell, possibly because it's come up during recon, or someone's mentioned it in the Spychat over the years, or the name is just generic enough that it seems like something we've heard !
Bottomless respect for Oliver
Major shout to the earth studies field pants. Four pairs in rotation, and always feels good to support the home team
💯
Fab sletter. I read Worn earlier this year and have been eagerly awaiting the official Plane Position on it. Such a hugely depressing read, but so essential. Got me wanting to plant some flax out in the yard and revive the once world class local wool industry where I live
Kind of book I want to re-read every few years -- btw we actually first put it in our 2023 Slappy Awards ! https://www.blackbirdspyplane.com/p/spyplane-best-of-2023-slappy-awards?
Oh true! Before my time as a subscriber I think. Reckon I tried a vague search for it in the archives once but couldn’t find it. Will have to go back and read the review now!
Would be curious on your view of OAMC. The brand’s peak was pre- spy plane, but they were one of the best to ever do it in their prime. Fall Winter 2015 sets the bar for “luxury gorp that’s still hard for the streets.” The quality was unmatched - still have wool gabardine cargo pants, the nylon overshirt with the unbelievably hard gosgrain trim, thick knit sweaters, and a shearling from that collection that are going strong/near immaculate a decade later.
Luke Meier had a distinct style and was sad to see him leave Jil Sander. Their plus line was pricey but usually interesting
I'll confess it's a line I've long been ambiently aware of, and have seen some cool pieces from them, but have never really dug in! Need to find some fw15 specimens...
How about William Frederick’s studio pants?. The fabrics, silhouette, non fussiness as well as ease of wear is now one of my favorite elastic pants to wear hands down. Not to forget the price point…
Big pant!
One could assemble an unlimited number of fire ass fits from this list
Exponential compounding fire
While not something that (to my knowledge) has been mentioned here, the collection Older Brother and LA designed Lyle McGraw made is one of my favorites of the 2020s due to it being made from the scraps of past collections and its unique circle pocket motif
We saluted them at the bottom of today's sletter -- they for sure have been part of the Early Spyplane Era. Check this out: https://www.blackbirdspyplane.com/p/hot-collabs-with-gaia?
Oops my bad! Glad they got a shoutout
Love to see the BC homies make the list (DLB & JC), big shout out to the Toronto legend as well. Canada represented well here!
The Japanese clothing brand Ichi Antiquities, from Fukuoka, collaborated with Sally Fox for their spring and summer 2025 collections. Moth in Chicago will receive the summer collection in approximately one week!
Amazing— !